How is Ethiopian Clothing Made? Cotton to Finished Garment

Ethiopian clothing often appears simple: white cotton with a decorative border. Yet, understanding its creation, particularly distinguishing handmade from factory-produced items, can be challenging. This guide provides a clear, step-by-step breakdown of the traditional process, from raw cotton to a finished Habesha kemis, netela, or gabi. It outlines the methods artisans use, enabling recognition of authentic quality.

The full process in 10 steps (quick overview first)

1. Start with cotton picking and sorting. Quality begins in the field, not the workshop.
2. Remove seeds (gin) and clean the fiber. This manual process prepares the cotton for spinning.
3. Fluff and align cotton (bowing). This makes the cotton light and airy for spinning.
4. Hand-spin cotton into yarn (derdaro). The fiber transforms into thread.
5. Prepare the loom (warp + setup). Readying the traditional loom for weaving.
6. Weave narrow shemma strips on a handloom. The base fabric is created in narrow sections.
7. Add tibeb (woven during weaving or by embroidery). This incorporates the distinctive decoration.
8. Sew strips into full-width cloth. Narrow strips are joined to form a larger fabric piece.
9. Cut, stitch, and fit the garment (kemis/netela/gabi). The flat cloth is made into its final shape.
10. Finish, check quality, and care for the garment. The final inspection and maintenance.

Step 1: Pick and sort the cotton (why handpicking matters)

The process begins with hand-picking cotton in stages to select only mature bolls. This ensures strong and consistent fibers.

What good cotton looks like:

• Clean: Free from leaves, dirt, or debris.
• Consistent: Fibers (staples) are of similar length.
• Bright: A natural white color.

Clean cotton simplifies subsequent steps and contributes to smoother yarn.

Specific types of cotton plants in Ethiopia
Traditional Ethiopian handwoven cloths primarily use upland cotton varieties (Gossypium hirsutum). Local cultivars, along with introduced varieties like DP 90 and Stam 59A, are cultivated depending on the region and availability.

These cottons yield fine, soft handspun yarns ideal for breathable garments such as netela, shemma, and Habesha kemis.

Step 2: Remove seeds and dirt (traditional ginning / “fetet”)

Seeds are removed using the traditional fetet method. Cotton fiber is placed on a flat stone, and an iron rod (medamager) is used to tap it. This action loosens fibers and separates seeds and dirt without damaging the cotton.

Common mistakes:

• Over-beating: Weakens cotton fibers.
• Leaving seeds: Creates lumps and weak spots in the thread.
• Mixing dirty fiber back in: Undermines the cleaning process.

Step 3: Fluff the cotton into soft “clouds” (degag / bowing)

Clumpy, cleaned cotton is fluffed through degag, or bowing. An artisan uses a large bow with a tight string, tapping it over the cotton. The vibrations transform dense cotton into a light, airy cloud, aiming for an even, consistent texture. Consistent bowing reduces thick and thin spots in the yarn.

Step 4: Hand-spin cotton into thread (derdaro) using an inzirt (drop spindle)

Skilled artisans, often women, spin the fluffy cotton into thread using a drop spindle, a process known as derdaro.

The tools are an inzirt (spindle) and a kesem (whorl) for momentum.

The spinning sequence:

1. Attach: A small amount of fiber is attached to the spindle’s hook or notch.
2. Twist: The artisan flicks the spindle to make it spin.
3. Draft: As it spins, fibers are steadily pulled from the cotton cloud, allowing the twist to form thread.
4. Wind: Spun thread is wound onto the spindle, and the process repeats.

This skill is passed down through generations. Handmade yarn has a soft, slightly irregular texture typical of authentic Ethiopian textiles.

Quick quality checks:

• Frequent breaks? Indicates insufficient twist.
• Feels like rope? Suggests excessive twist.

Specifics of Yarn Ply and Thread Counts:
Traditional warp and weft yarns are often single-ply handspun cotton. Precise EPI (ends per inch) and PPI (picks per inch) figures for traditional handspun Ethiopian textiles are not consistently documented. However, the quality of a Habesha kemis for special occasions or a netela is indicated by finer weaving, implying higher thread counts. For instance, some fine garments have thread totals around 120–140 TPI. Everyday garments are typically coarser, and gabi is heavier and coarser, though specific counts are not consistently recorded.

Step 5: Set up the handloom (warp, shed, pedals, and shuttle)

The hand-spun yarn is prepared for a horizontal treadle loom, often situated in a pit to provide a comfortable working height for the weaver. Setting up the loom, or "dressing," involves stretching hundreds of warp threads lengthwise. Weavers use bamboo sticks (kesem) to guide weft threads.

Detailed loom setup procedure for shemma
Traditional horizontal floor looms with treadles are used.

• Warping: Warp threads are fixed to the front breast beam, extended horizontally to the rear warp beam, and wound under even tension.
• Threading: Each warp end is threaded through heddles (suspended on frames or strings) and through the reed (or beating stick). The heddle arrangement determines the plain or patterned sheds.
• Treadle Tie-up: Foot treadles are tied to specific heddles or shafts; pressing a treadle lifts designated sets of warp ends to create the shed for the shuttle.
• Beating: A beating stick (reed) is used to compress the weft threads, forming the fabric. Careful edge control and consistent tension ensure an even cloth.

Exact measurements for warp tension, reed count, and standardized EPI/PPI for traditional handwoven cloths are not quantitatively documented and vary by workshop and desired fabric density.

The weaving motion in plain language:

1. A foot pedal is pressed to separate warp threads, forming an opening called the "shed."
2. The shuttle, carrying the weft thread, is thrown through the shed.
3. The new weft thread is beaten tightly into place.
4. Pedals are switched to alter the shed opening, and the shuttle is thrown back.

Ethiopian cloth is woven in narrow strips because traditional handlooms are built for this width.

Step 6: Weave shemma strips (the base fabric)

The base fabric, shemma, is created by repeating the weaving motion, yielding long, narrow strips, typically around 30–35 inches wide. Multiple strips are sewn together to form garments. Weavers often memorize complex patterns, counting hundreds of threads by eye.

Step 7: Add tibeb (the decorative border): woven tibeb vs embroidered tibeb

The tibeb, the decorative border, can be created in two primary ways. Traditional tibeb motifs include geometric patterns, crosses, and regionally specific symbols.

Tibeb option A: Weave tibeb during weaving (supplementary weft)

Skilled weavers incorporate tibeb directly into the cloth during weaving. Using extra colored threads (supplementary weft), they create patterns by counting warp threads and floating the decorative thread over and under them. This can involve single or multiple colors for complex designs.

Tibeb option B: Embroider tibeb after weaving (tilf tibeb)

Tilf tibeb is hand-embroidered onto completed shemma cloth. Artisans add designs to edges, hems, sleeves, and necklines. While silk was traditional, modern threads often include colorful rayon floss or metallic threads. Slight irregularities in stitching indicate authentic handwork.

Motifs and meanings

1. Triangles/Diamonds/Zig-zags: Symbolize continuity and community.
2. Crosses: Represent the Orthodox Christian faith.
3. Floral Shapes: Stand for beauty, nature, and growth.

Color choices

1. White shemma: The traditional base, symbolizing purity.
2. Maroon: Represents strength and pride.
3. Deep Green and Gold: Signify prosperity and fertility.

Traditional dye materials and methods for tibeb
While a domestic and ceremonial palette centers on white with accents of red, yellow, green, and black, traditional dye sources for tibeb historically included:

• Red: Cochineal (Dactylopius species) and madder root (Rubia tinctorum) have been used. Other local plant sources and mineral reds (red ocher) also appear regionally.
• Yellow/Orange: Marigold (Tagetes species), annatto (Bixa orellana) in some areas, Impatiens tinctoria, other local plants, and mineral yellows/ochers.
• Blue: Natural indigo from Indigofera species (and related plants); indigo yields blue without a mordant when properly processed.
• Greens and Others: Greens can be derived from plant combinations or overdying. Mineral pigments, such as ochres, siennas, and historically malachite, were also used.

Dyeing methods and mordants:

• Extraction: Dyes are produced by aqueous extraction (boiling or steeping plant parts).
• Dyeing Process: Exhaust dyeing is used for cellulose fibers like cotton. Indigo requires reduction/fermentation vats. Threads were historically dyed before weaving or embroidery.
• Mordants: Common mordants include alum (aluminum sulfate), iron (ferrous sulfate), copper sulfate, and sometimes tin (stannous chloride). Mordants fix dyes to fibers and can shift color shades. Mordanting can occur before, during, or after dyeing.

Natural dyes, once prevalent in liturgical and high-status textiles, have seen a decline with synthetic dyes, though traditional methods are preserved by some artisans.

Step 8: Join the narrow strips into full cloth (the seam stage)

To create wide fabric for garments, narrow shemma strips are carefully hand-sewn together edge-to-edge. Hand-stitching results in flatter seams and better fabric drape compared to machine stitching.

Common irregularities in hand-stitched seams that distinguish them from machine-made versions:
Hand-stitched seams show slight, natural variations in stitch spacing, depth, and alignment. These irregularities are markers of handwork. A common durable technique is the saddle stitch. On close inspection, hand stitches may enter the fabric at a slant and have longer running-stitch segments with variable spacing, creating a more rugged, textured appearance than uniform machine work. Hand finishes often include visible backstitches or knots at terminations.

Checklist for strong seams:

1. Even Edges: Strips are neatly matched.
2. Consistent Stitches: Hand-stitching is uniform and tight.
3. Reinforced Points: Seams at stress points are secure.

When draped, seams should lie flat without puckering, appearing almost invisible.

Step 9: Turn cloth into garments (Habesha kemis, netela, and gabi)

Once the full-width cloth is ready, it is tailored into the final garment.

Choose the garment type (fast guide)

Build a Habesha kemis (dress) step-by-step

1. Measure: Tailors take bust, waist, hip, and length measurements. There is no universal sizing chart; fitting is essential.
2. Cut & Assemble: The joined shemma cloth is cut and stitched into an ankle-length dress.
3. Add Tibeb: The decorative border is placed around the collar, neckline, sleeves, and hem.
4. Fit & Adjust: The dress is fitted to the wearer. Modern versions may feature a more fitted waist or higher collar.

Time to make: Weaving enough shemma for one dress can take 2–3 weeks. The entire process, from spinning yarn to final embroidery, often takes 20–25 days.

Make a netela (thin shawl) step-by-step

1. Select Shemma: Use a lightweight, smooth-draping shemma.

2. Sew Strips: Join strips with flat, even hand-sewn seams.

3. Add Tibeb: Add decorative borders, ensuring neat tension to prevent puckering.

4. Check Drape: The finished shawl should drape smoothly.

Make a gabi (thick wrap) step-by-step

1. Collect Shemma: A gabi requires approximately 25 meters of shemma.
2. Cut Sections: This length is cut into sections, typically around 3 meters each.
3. Stack and Sew: Four layers are stacked and sewn together along one edge to create a thick, heavy wrap.
4. Check Density: The finished gabi should feel warm and structured, with symmetrical borders.

Step 10: Finish, inspect quality, and care for the garment

Before purchase or wear, final checks ensure quality.

Quick quality checks (hands-on)

1. Seam Type: Look for neat hand-stitching between strips. Check for reinforcement at shoulders.
2. Embroidery Tension: Embroidery should be flat with no loose loops or puckered fabric.
   Irregularities in hand-embroidered tibeb: Hand-embroidered or hand-woven tibeb may show slight imperfections such as uneven stitch lengths, minor asymmetries, and occasional loose ends, which confirm its handmade origin. In contrast, machine-made tibeb is highly uniform, symmetrical, and tightly finished.
3. Border Symmetry: On a gabi or netela, borders should align when folded in half.
4. Handmade Feel: Look for slight irregularities. "Too perfect" may indicate mass production.

Care basics for long life

• Hand-wash cold to protect cotton and embroidery.
• Dry flat on a clean surface to prevent stretching.
• Store folded, not hung, to prevent warping of heavy garments.

Common questions people have (short answers)

How long does it take to make a real Habesha kemis?
Weaving the cloth alone takes 2–3 weeks. The entire process, from raw cotton to finished dress, often takes 20–25 days.

Is tibeb always woven?
No. It can be woven directly into the fabric (supplementary weft) or hand-embroidered on top (tilf tibeb).

What materials are used today?
The base cloth is cotton, sometimes imported. Vibrant embroidery threads are typically rayon or metallic threads.

How can someone tell handmade from machine-made fast?
Examine the seams: handmade garments are made from narrow strips sewn together. Machine-made ones use a single wide piece of fabric. Hand-embroidery also has slight, charming imperfections.

FAQs

What material are Ethiopian clothes made of?
Traditional Ethiopian clothing is primarily made from cotton (shemma). Decorative threads (tibeb) can be cotton, rayon, silk, or metallic threads.

What is Ethiopian tela made of?
Netela (often misidentified as 'tela') is a thin shawl made from handwoven cotton strips (shemma) sewn together. It is lightweight and drapes easily.

What materials does Sabahar use?
Sabahar, a known Ethiopian textile company, primarily uses locally sourced silk and cotton, colored with natural dyes.

Does Ethiopia produce silk?
Yes, Ethiopia has a tradition of producing Eri silk. Unlike mulberry silk, Eri silk is harvested after the moth has left the cocoon, making it a more peace-friendly process.

Mini glossary

• Shemma: Handwoven cotton fabric, usually in narrow strips.
• Tibeb / Tebet: Intricate, decorative border pattern.
• Tilf tibeb: A tibeb hand-embroidered onto the cloth.
• Derdaro: Traditional hand-spinning of cotton into thread.
• Inzirt: Wooden drop spindle for spinning thread.
• Kesem: Whorl (weight) on a spindle; also bamboo sticks in weaving.
• Medamager: Iron rod used to tap cotton and remove seeds.
• Netela: Thin, lightweight shawl or wrap.
• Gabi: Thick, heavy, multi-layered wrap for warmth.
• Habesha kemis: Traditional ankle-length white cotton dress.