What Is an Ethiopian Scarf Called? Netela & Regional Names

People often ask about "Ethiopian scarves," encountering various names online and in different communities. This guide clarifies the main term and common regional variations. It uses terms Ethiopians use and provides clues, fabric, thickness, and borders, to help you identify what you are looking for.

This article describes a light, handwoven cotton scarf or shawl, typically white, with a decorative border called a tibeb. It also explains related wraps like the kuta, gabi, and fota that are often confused with the netela.

Quick Answer: The Ethiopian scarf is usually called a Netela

If you learn only one word, remember: netela.

• Use netela for the classic lightweight white cotton scarf/shawl, particularly those with a colored tibeb border.
• "Ethiopian scarf" in most English listings refers to a netela.
• For specific styles or in certain regions, you might encounter an Adare (a Harar-style headscarf) or a different wrap like a kuta or gabi.

Netela Meaning: Identifying One

What "Netela" Means

When people say "netela," they refer to a garment with these characteristics:

• A very lightweight, gauzy cotton feel. It is not thick or heavy.
• A white or off-white base color.
• A decorative border called a tibeb, which is either embroidered or woven into the fabric.

A standard netela is sized to about 160 × 260 cm (63 × 102 inches).

The Fabric and Weave

• It is almost always 100% cotton.
• It is traditionally handwoven on a horizontal, foot-operated loom (including pit looms and other horizontal treadle looms). These looms allow for precise tension control, creating the fine, even gauze and detailed borders of the netela.
• Weavers create the fabric, often as a two-layered, sheer textile. The decorative tibeb border is integrated during the weaving process or added through embroidery later.

Netela vs. Other Ethiopian Wraps

It is easy to confuse the netela with other traditional cloths. This table outlines the main differences.

Table: Netela vs. Similar Ethiopian Wraps

Distinctions

1. Spot the netela by its light weight and decorative tibeb border. It is commonly worn for church and formal events.
2. Spot the gabi by its thickness. It is a heavy, warm wrap, often resembling a blanket, worn in colder highland regions.
3. Spot the kuta as a lighter men’s wrap for warm weather, similar to an everyday netela for men.
4. Spot the fota by its bright, often checkered patterns. It is a colorful wrap or towel-like cloth.

Regional and Style Names

Netela Styles from Different Regions

The placement of the tibeb can indicate its origin.

• Shewa style: Features embroidery on the cuffs, middle, and bottom. Designs often coordinate.
• Gondar style: Embroidery is typically concentrated on the bottom hem or back area.

Adare (Harar): The Colorful Headscarf

• Adare refers to a colorful headscarf from the Harar region, traditionally worn by Adare women.
• It usually has a darker fabric, such as black, with bold red and yellow patterns.

The classic white church shawl is a netela, not an Adare.

Tibeb: The Decorative Border

What Tibeb Means

The tibeb is the decorative woven or embroidered border. It appears on netelas and other garments. This border showcases craftsmanship, often indicating quality, style, and regional identity.

Common Colors and Their Meanings

The colors in a tibeb have traditional associations, though meanings can vary.

• Green: Often linked to fertility.
• Yellow: May suggest wealth or prosperity.
• Red: Can represent sacrifice.

Common Patterns

Geometric patterns convey various meanings.

• Diamond shapes: Can symbolize community and unity.
• Zigzag: Often represents life’s journey or Ethiopia's mountains.
• Spiral: Suggests growth and change.

How to Wear a Netela

The way a netela is draped can convey meaning, from social status to the occasion.

Common Draping Methods

1. Formal/Religious: The decorated end is folded neatly over the right shoulder.
2. Modesty: The netela covers the head and shoulders, commonly in churches.
3. Mourning: In some contexts, the decorated end is wrapped around the face to express grief.
4. Casual: The scarf is thrown loosely over the left shoulder for a relaxed appearance.

There are no widely noted forbidden colors or patterns; modesty and respect for religious or cultural context guide proper use.

When to Wear a Netela

The netela is used for various occasions, from religious events to daily wear.

Typical Occasions for a Netela

• Church services and religious holidays: The white color symbolizes purity and respect.
• Weddings: Often paired with a traditional dress (Habesha kemis), with the tibeb matching the dress. Some wedding guests wear two netelas, one for the shoulders and one for the head.
• Formal gatherings and cultural events: A key part of traditional formalwear.
• Everyday wear: Used as a practical light shawl in cities or during warm weather.

Buying a Netela

What to Ask For

1. Ask for a “netela” specifically if you want the classic white shawl.
2. Ask if it is “handwoven cotton” for a traditional feel and texture.
3. Ask how the tibeb is made (embroidered vs. woven) to assess detail and durability.

Quality Checklist

• Cotton feel: Should be breathable, not slippery or shiny like synthetic fabrics.
• Even weave: Look for neat seams where fabric strips are joined.
• Clean tibeb: The stitching or weaving on the border should be consistent, without loose threads.

Typical Price Ranges

Prices vary based on craftsmanship, materials, and point of purchase.

Table: Common Price Bands

Where to Buy

Authentic Ethiopian netelas can be purchased from various sources:

• Etsy: Offers a wide selection from independent sellers and artisans. Search terms like "Ethiopian netela," "Habesha scarf," or "Ethiopian handwoven shawl" are effective.
• Amazon: Some vendors specialize in cultural textiles and list netelas.
• Specialty African Textile Shops: Retailers online and in larger cities often carry authentic pieces sourced directly from Ethiopia.
• Cultural Marketplaces and Festivals: Events focused on African culture often feature vendors selling traditional garments.
• Direct from Ethiopian Businesses: Some Ethiopian-owned businesses operate online, providing direct access to weavers and artisans.

Care Tips: Keeping Your Netela Looking Good

• Washing: Hand wash only in cold water with mild detergent for delicate fabrics. Soak gently for 10–15 minutes; avoid prolonged soaking. Gently rub stained areas; do not scrub harshly. Rinse thoroughly until suds are gone.
• Drying: To remove excess water, lay the netela on a clean towel, roll it gently, and press. Do not wring. Air dry away from direct sunlight until slightly damp. Dry flat or hang on a wide hanger to maintain the garment’s drape.
• Ironing: If ironing is needed, iron from the reverse side on low to medium heat. Place a clean cloth between the iron and the netela to protect embroidery and woven borders. Avoid using steam directly on delicate stitching and borders. Allow the garment to air dry completely after ironing before storing.
• Storage: Fold neatly and store in breathable cotton or muslin bags to prevent moisture buildup. Keep in a dry, cool place away from direct light and pests. Avoid harsh detergents that can fade colored threads.

FAQ

What is the name of the scarf in Ethiopia?

The most common name for the traditional lightweight white scarf is netela. Other wraps include the thicker gabi and the men's kuta.

What is an Ethiopian shamma?

Shamma refers to the plain-weave cotton cloth itself. This fabric is used to make various garments, including the netela.

Do Ethiopians wear headscarves?

Yes. Women often use the netela to cover their heads for religious services or modesty. In Harar, women wear a distinct colorful headscarf called an Adare.

Why do Ethiopians wear netela?

The netela is worn for cultural and religious reasons. It is a key part of formal dress, shows respect in sacred places, and works as a practical, lightweight shawl for daily life.